Is your skin suddenly dry, red, bumpy, or breaking out? If you've tried everything else and nothing seems to work, it may just be that you're over-exfoliating.
With so many new skincare products launching and going viral, we feel the need to try them all and add them to our routine. The issue? You may be mixing actives and exfoliating your skin too much, and may not even realize it.
We relate, and we have questions. We tapped Deborah Kilgore, the Global Director of Skin Care Knowledge at Paula’s Choice, to get all the answers about what exactly we're doing to our skin, how to properly exfoliate, and how to recover our skin barrier.
When we over-exfoliate, we damage our moisture barrier, the skin's natural defense system that keeps hydration in and irritants out. The barrier becomes weaker and compromised when we overdo the exfoliation. This damage leaves the skin feeling unbalanced.
"Over-exfoliation happens when you remove more than skin can comfortably handle. That can strip away what skin needs to stay healthy, leading to tightness, dullness, and increased sensitivity," Kilgore told E!.
According to Kilgore, our skin gives clear signs that we're over-exfoliating. You shouldn't ignore these signs, either. If you see these and you use an exfoliator or a variety of actives, stop and focus on repairing your skin barrier.
"These are signs to pause, not push through. When skin feels overwhelmed, it's important to scale back and give it time to recover," she told us.
Common red flags include: Persistent dryness, flakiness, or a tight feeling that doesn't get better with a moisturizer; redness and irritation that lingers; stinging or burning when applying products that your skin has tolerated before; stubborn dullness; Increased reactivity to environmental factors like wind, cold, or sun; And breakouts or rough, bumpy texture that came out of nowhere.
The truth is that there is no one universal rule for the perfect amount of exfoliation. According to Kilgore, the right amount depends on the exfoliant's formula and your skin's sensitivity. If you're new to the world of chemical exfoliants, it's recommended to start two to three times in the first week (or every other day), and then increase slowly once your skin is used to it.
"Leave-on AHAs and PHAs are often used at up to 10%, while 2% salicylic acid is a common level for regular BHA use," Kilgore told E!. "The goal is never to push skin harder than it can handle. Your skin will usually tell you when you’ve found the right balance."
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According to Kilgore, over-exfoliation usually happens when too many strong actives are layered together during the same skincare routine. We should keep an eye on the following combinations: Multiple exfoliating acids (like AHA and BHA); high-strength acne treatments (like benzoyl peroxide) with acid exfoliants; retinoids with strong exfoliating acids.
"It’s also smart to watch for drying alcohol, menthol, citrus, added fragrance, or formulas with very low or high pH, which can weaken skin over time," she told E!.
The first step to recover from over-exfoliation is to stop using the products that are the likely cause of the problem—at least until your skin calms down. The second step is to simplify your routine. "Use an ultra-gentle cleanser, hydrating and soothing formulas, a barrier-supportive moisturizer, and a daily broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher," Kilgore told E!. "Skin often recovers best when you do less."
Your skin will recover; it just requires patience and a willingness to pivot. "Once irritation has settled, reintroduce actives such as exfoliants slowly—one at a time—so you can find the balance that works best for your skin. Remember that more isn't always better," she said.
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Looking for more expert advice? Learn more about liquid collagen and other beauty wellness drinks!
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